“My bathroom is leaking. Do you have any quick-fix solution for me to solve this problem” This is one of the most common enquiries we get from our clients all the time.
Unfortunately, we have nothing but BAD NEWS!
There is no quick-fix solution to fix a leaking bathroom, especially when you can’t identify the root cause. Many people opt to inject PU foam to “stop” the leakage, but it’s not a guaranteed fix. Besides that, it may cause the water to flow away & leak at another area instead. The only permanent, long-term solution is to reapply the waterproofing. That’s why we believe that waterproofing should be done right from the very beginning to reduce any headaches in the future.
Check out some of our toilet waterproofing tips below!
1. Let’s Talk About Upturns
Waterproofing materials are applied in such a way that it is like a “tank” to the water in the area. Hence, you should not only apply it on the floor areas, but on the wall as well. For wall applications, we recommend to apply it until 300mm above the floor: this is what we call an upturn.
2. Angles, Angles, Angles
Before you start applying your waterproofing material, ALWAYS remember to treat the 90° angles at the corners of the room. These corners are the weakest point for your waterproofing. You can treat them either by installing angle fillets (cement + sand + latex polymers) to form a 45° angle, or by reinforcing the areas with fibres.
3. Angle Fillets
Since we talked about angle fillets, let’s elaborate a little bit more on it. The reason why we high recommend adding good quality latex polymers is because this helps your angle fillets have higher strength. Keep in mind that screeds & tiles are usually installed after your waterproofing, and all these heavy-weight items will be sitting on top of your waterproofing & angle fillet. If your angle fillet is too weak and cracks, your waterproofing material on top of it will puncture together with it.
Styrene-butadiene rubber (SBR) or acrylic-based polymers are great options for this purpose. Stay away from PVA-based polymers as these typically have lower performances & they are water-soluble. If you think this is just too much trouble, just replace the angle fillet with a strip of fibre instead. (However, if you’re using a cement-based waterproofing product, make sure you check that your fibres are alkali resistant!)
4. You Are What You Consume
You can use the best waterproofing material in the world, but it will not be effective if you don’t take into consideration on the consumption. How much material you use at site = the final thickness of your waterproofing membrane = how effective the waterproofing system is. The thicker your waterproofing membrane, the higher the durability & effectiveness. Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendation based on the application area & construction method.
5. Mixing Your Waterproofing Product
Make sure to mix according to the right mixing ratios if you’re using 2-component products which require mixing with water or other components before use. For cementitious waterproofing materials, it is recommended to use a helix handheld mixer to ensure homogeneous mixing. Otherwise, you will have to mix longer to achieve a similar effect.
Dritech recommends Dri-Lastic WP-20 for waterproofing all your internal wet rooms, including bathrooms, balconies, yards, air-con ledges, etc.
Dri-Lastic WP-20 is a mono-component, rubberized acrylic waterproofing membrane.
- No mixing is required – just open the tub & start applying
- Specially coloured in green to easily spot for insufficient consumption. If you see any areas that still shows grey from the concrete substrate, it means there’s not enough material at that spot.
- Non-alkaline (no cement!) & compatible with most fibres.
- There is no cement in in the product, making it non-alkaline & compatible with most fibres.